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The fight with the water: Big wave surfing

Big wave surfing is a thrilling sport that has been gaining popularity in recent years. For some people, big wave surfing is not just a sport, but a way of life. It's a thrill-seeking, adrenaline-pumping activity that only a few surfers dare to attempt. Regular surfing rides waves at the height of 1,8m and big wave surfing rides waves at the height of 24m or more with a speed of about 80km/h. These massive waves are found in a few selected locations around the world, including Hawaii, California, and Portugal. These spots offer the most challenging waves, but also the greatest rewards for those who can ride them.
Big wave surfing is a dangerous and extreme sport. Some big wave surfers have been severely injured or even lost their lives while attempting this risky sport. It's a challenge that tests the physical and mental strength of even the most experienced surfers.
Some of the most famous big wave surfers in the world include Laird Hamilton, Garrett McNamara, and Maya Gabeira. These surfers have set records for riding some of the biggest waves ever recorded, and their feats have inspired a new generation of surfers to take on the challenge of big wave surfing.
Surfers who want to try big wave surfing must be equipped with the right gear to protect themselves from the powerful waves. They also need to have a deep knowledge of the ocean, including the patterns of the waves and the weather. The right training and the ability to hold their breath for long periods of time is also crucial.
Big wave surfing has become a popular spectator sport, with thousands of people coming to watch the competitions held in various locations around the world. Some of the most famous big wave surfing contests include the Eddie Aikau, held at Waimea Bay in Hawaii, and the Big Wave Awards, which recognize the best big wave performances of the year.

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